家父常常會對我說不要自己一個人到處跑,好歹也找個一起伴吧(不過近年來他的這番話開始讓我懷疑有另一層含義,相信各位懂的,科科;老爸不好意思連續兩天cue你出場)!不諱言我已經非常習慣一個人旅行,而且有些行程是真的找不到伴,不過偶爾為了要去一個人比較難到的地方(通常是因為交通不便或單人成本太高)我還是會讓自助旅行變得不太自助,順便讓認識新朋友也變成旅行的一部分;今天和接下來兩天前往撒哈拉的行程便是如此。
My dad often said to me "don't always travel alone. You should find some partners!" (Which probably also implies he wants me to find a partner for the journey of life ASAP, haha.) Indeed I'm very used to traveling alone, and it's often hard to find people to join my trip, but occasionally I made exceptions -- due to lack of public transit or high cost, in some places I'd join tour groups. This is what I'm doing today and the next two days, on my way to Sahara.
今天的旅程是翻過北非的屋脊「地圖集山」(Atlas Mountain,其實是亞特拉斯山,但是身為一個地理人很私心的想把它翻譯成地圖集山,哈哈)。山的北邊是地中海氣候,最近正好是雨季,兩天都斷斷續續的下著雨,出發時下著滂沱大雨的山路讓人開始擔心會不會碰到土石流阻斷去路;幸好到了山的南邊就成為類似加州內陸的乾燥氣候帶,雨再怎麼下也下不過山脊,倒是在稜線上留下了皓皓白雪,像是塗滿糖霜的巧克力蛋糕那樣可口(我是肚子有多餓才會寫出這種奇怪的比擬啊)XD。
We crossed over Atlas Mountain, the ridge of North Africa. The north of the mountain has typical Mediterranean climate, and it was quite rainy when I visited, to the extent that I was concerned about the trip; the other side of the mountain, however, has arid climate similar to Californian inland. The rain only went as far as the mountain ridge, and stopped as snow on tope of the ridge. The snow-capped ridge looked like chocolate cake with icing on top. The other side of the mountain was quite nice and sunny.
山的另一邊是廣闊的赭紅色土地,上面長著棕櫚樹和矮灌木,傳統民房多為土造,因此顏色也自然和大地毫無違和的融為一體;即使是新建的磚造房屋,在顏色和風格上也保留了原本的協調性。這裡的重要景點是泥造古城Aït Benhaddou,一個讓人看到馬上就會想到典型電影中東或北非場景的地方。這裡原本是柏柏爾人的聚落,人去樓空之後透過電影獲得第二春,後來的確拍了不少電影,尤其是1970到1990年代間的聖經電影,最新的出鏡則是在劇集《權力遊戲》裡。到了這裡,同團的人都說真的有來到印象中的北非的感覺。不過漂亮歸漂亮,當地人無所不用其極從觀光客身上榨出錢的功力也是一絕,最好要有點心理準備。
Most buildings are made from mud, and thus retain the brown-red color of the land. Even contemporary buildings made from bricks still match this local style. Our major stop is Aït Benhaddou, previously a Berber village and later became a well-preserved ancient city. It has been featured in many films with north Africa and middle East backgrounds. Particularly, many of the "Bible movies" in 1970-1990 were shot here, and the latest on-screen appearance is on the game of thrones. The beauty here, however, comes at the cost of ambitious locals, who would try everything they can do make to buy things.
最後來講講新朋友這塊。雖然英文是大家的最大公約數,團裡卻沒有人的母語是英文,大概調查了一下國籍包括:比利時、義大利、波蘭、斯洛伐克,再加上文化相對接近的兩個中國女生、三個日本女生和一對日本情侶,這下又被我逮到練習其他語言(尤其是想學好卻超級破的日文)的好機會了。另外很有趣的是我透過自己知道的少少西班牙文,竟然可以從義大利文對話裡聽懂一些,意外讓我親身印證了兩者間的高度關連。跟團出來還有個超大的好處:終於有我能入境的照片啦!
明天就要和這些可愛的小夥伴前進撒拉拉沙漠了。令人期待。
Lastly about the "partners" I found in this group -- while English is the common language, none of us are born in a English-speaking country. Nationalities include: Belgium, Slavokia, Poland, Italy, Japan and China. This gave me good opportunities to practice foreign languages, especially Japanese. Even listening to Italian conversations make me realize its similarity to Spanish. What a bonus!
They'll be my peers to Sahara tomorrow. Look forward to it :)
in transit意思 在 PINK【驛馬星動】如果一生只可以去一個地方旅行,除了印度外,我別無選擇 Facebook 的精選貼文
土庫曼斯坦 2 - 神秘的黑市兌換
我比旅行團(詳細之後分享)早一天到達Ashgabat ,晨早飛機已經到達,但因為機場裡只有一個人負責做簽証工作,等了一個小時才完成,其實機場人根本不多!旅行社派了司機接我回酒店,土庫曼斯坦沒有所謂廉價住宿,旅行團被迫住進星級酒店。(不過如果你用transit visa 其實在Ashgabat 可以Couchsurfing,但真的看你是否幸運有人接待)
*有LOI在機場可以做落地簽證,BNO的簽証費用為usd105,另外每個人也需交Usd14入境稅
*所有土庫曼酒店也會收取每個旅客每晚Usd2的酒店稅,check out時付錢,每次check in 必收護照check out後才交還給你
酒店只可在下午一點後才check in ,我唯有放下行李先出去逛逛。旅行社職員打電話到酒店找我打個招呼,因為之前一直只是在電郵聯絡,我説出外去市集逛逛,他説記緊不要在市集拍攝。
幸好酒店職員可以用英語交談,確定了去那一個市集我便用預先download了離線地圖走路去,地圖顯示走路要二十五分鐘。其實走路二十五分鐘不算什麼,但重點是早上九點多全露天地走路我也感到好熱,想像不到正午時分如何走出去!初到Ashgabat 很心急地看看這個地方,街上的人不多而且感覺他們不會想和遊客有任何接觸,就算向他們微笑但也沒有回應更加不敢拿電話出來拍照,難道土庫曼斯坦的人就是那麼冷漠!
終於走到俄羅斯市集附近,遠遠就看見兩個穿著傳統土庫曼紅色長裙的女生好!漂!亮!也不理會被拒絕的可能性,走上前微笑說聲你好,你們好漂亮啊可以拍照嗎?兩位美女竟然笑著回應可以啊,就是這樣我就拍下了第一張在土庫曼人的照片,閒聊了一會她們說附近也有不同的購物地方,就是這樣説聲再見,至今從看照片也覺得她們真的好美。
走進市集裡和中亞國家其他的市集有明顯分別,沒有此起彼落的叫賣聲,沒有臉帶笑容的叔叔叫你嘗嘗嘗果仁,所有店家看起來也是木囗木面,就連我這個稀有的遊客在他們面前走過也觸動不到他們的好奇心!一個安靜如圖書館的市集毫無生氣,再逛下去也沒有意思,我走上二樓賣布匹的地方,看了幾眼就站在一個角落拿出電話往樓下偷拍了幾張,然後又無目的地走近賣土庫曼飾物紀念品攤檔。看中很多手工造的帽,店主開價後我覺得頗貴,這𥚃的人真的可以負擔這個價格去買嗎?
先説有關兌換土庫曼貨幣的匯率,政府劃一了Usd $1 可以換3.5 Manat ,在士多買一支水要6 manat 差不多要usd2一支,相比其他中亞國家之下真的太貴了!後來我誤打誤撞找到裁縫造裙(這個也是我去土庫曼的其中一個原因,造裙的細節之後另分享)因為身上沒有土庫曼貨幣,所以請裁縫帶我去銀行兌換,她帶了我去一個士多,和老闆說了幾句後問我兌換多少美元,我用計算機按下100給老闆看,隨即老闆又按下計算機給我看,一看數字我就亂,老闆給我的價是1500!怎麼呢?即是美元100 可以有土庫曼1500!?把計算機按來按去之後我確定了真的是1500 之後便把美元給了老闆,換來1500 的土庫曼貨幣,老闆把一隻手指放在唇上示意我保守秘密,然後就繼續做士多生意,這就是傳說中的黑市兌換,如果我不是去造裙的話我決不會知道那裡可以換黑市呢!裁縫表示如果給警察發現了兩個人也要被罰的,據說土庫曼很多秘密警察,我可不想在這裏坐監⋯⋯
⋯⋯⋯待續⋯⋯
有關土庫曼地獄之門按入這裡看
⬇️
https://www.facebook.com/227075223978040/posts/2025278407491037/
記得去旅行之前先用電話裝@hotelscombined 這個apps 去旅行的好幫手👍🏻
download ➡️ http://bit.ly/2KuIRdn
~~待續~~
#hotelscombined
#centralasia
#Turkmenistan
#Ashgabat
#土庫曼斯坦
🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒🛩🎒
Indiapink已經出發中亞五國+高加索大旅行,不斷更新旅途中的大小事,別忘了把Facebook專頁為"搶先看"(See first)以及"開啟通知"(Notification On)
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in transit意思 在 旅行熱炒店Podcast Facebook 的最佳解答
葉卡琳特堡 Ekaterinburg
原本只是路過,結果這個城市卻讓我印象意外深刻,除了這裡英文標示清楚、交通便利、擁有景色宜人的河岸散步道之外,還有兩個讓我覺得很有意思的地方:
1. 1918年最後一任沙皇一家七口在這個城市被無辜殺害,處決現場現在矗立著濺血教堂(Church of the Spilled Blood),遺體被棄置處則成為有七座木造教堂的Ganina Yama園區,兩個地方都成為東正教徒朝聖的地方。有趣的是,後來沙皇一家七口都被東正教封為聖人,因此在紀念品店裡可以看到「全家福」的聖像畫,全家大小像一般家庭拍照那樣坐在一起,但每個頭上都多了一個光圈。
2. 葉爾欽博物館。促成蘇聯解體的俄羅斯聯邦第一任總統葉爾欽在似乎在俄羅斯人心目中風評不太好(相較於做了這麼多年,支持率還是絲毫未減的普亭),不過他的家鄉葉卡琳特堡還是為他建立了一座博物館。博物館本身建築就很引人注目,不過讓我更覺得震撼的是它表達出的強烈反思意識。展場開頭就毫不留情的批評,由於俄羅斯走上共產主義的道路,和人類社會的發展趨勢脫節了70年之久;但最後也沒有把葉爾欽英雄化,甚至把他晚年支持率掉到只有5%、以及背後的原因都寫出來(所以大家不要再嘲笑9.2%了啦,人家比上不足比下有餘呀XD)。這種誠實面對功過、不隨便神化個人並且讓參觀者自己去思考的設計我很喜歡,這和我拜訪的前一個國家正好形成強烈對比。
I thought this is just a random stop on my trip, but was later impressed by it. In addition to helpful English signs, decent transit system and scenic river walk, I found two interesting places in the city.
1. The last Year along with his family were executed here in 1918. A landmark cathedral "Church of the Spilled Blood" was later erected on the execution site, and now at the disposal site stand 7 wooden chapels, to memorize the Tsar, the queen and 5 children. What I found interesting was, since the entire family was later declared saints by Russian Orthodox Church, now at the souvenir shop you can find the painting of a "saints family", which is like a typical family photo but there is a ring around everyone's face.
2. Yeltsin Museum. The first president of Russia Federation and the person who pushed the button of the Soviet Union dissolution, Yeltsin received fairly negative criticism (compared to Vladimir Putin, whose support hasn't dropped since he came into power in 2000), but still his home city founded a museum for him. The building itself was eye-catching, but what amazed me was the reflective voice it conveys. At the beginning of the exhibit, the Soviet Russia was criticized that "it led the country astray for 7 decades"; at the end, Yeltsin was not deified either. His 5% support rate and its historic context were honestly presented. I really like this experience, as it leaves a visitor not a firm conclusion, but a room to think more. This is a huge contrast to my experience in the previous country.
喀山 Kazan
這是一個我原本就有所期待、但後來發現期待以外的驚喜的城市。
大家都知道中亞地區有五個斯坦國,他們的下面還有兩個斯坦(阿富汗、巴基斯坦),不過很少人知道其實俄羅斯境內也有個斯坦國:韃靼斯坦(Tartarstan),是由韃靼突厥人(Tartar Turks)人為主體的俄羅斯聯邦境內的自治共和國,首都就是喀山,他們獨特的文化傳統可以追溯到16世紀的喀山汗國(蒙古四大汗國中的欽察汗國瓦解後的產物)。因此在這裡既可以見到東正教堂,也可以見到規模與氣勢毫不遜色的清真寺,兩群人兩種信仰在這個城市裡並存著。我當初決定要來喀山,為的就是要來體驗這種獨特的文化氛圍。
但這個城市還給了我更多的驚喜。喀山的文化很特別,但它不光靠自己的文化獨特性存活。近來喀山每兩年就主辦一次國際賽事,除了這次有參與主辦2018世界盃之外,2013年的世大運就是喀山主辦的,因此整個城市的基礎設施非常完整,俄英雙語的標示與地圖到處可見,辨識度極高的旅遊資訊中心裡有英文流利的服務人員,更不用說這裡大概永遠不會有「蚊子館」的問題。喀山也是歷史悠久的大學城,據說最近還成立新學校培養資訊科技人才。誰說一個文化古城就一定要把歷史遺跡當唯一賣點?喀山曾經膨風自己是俄羅斯第三首都,它的人口距離全國第三還很遙遠,但它的企圖心和行動力確實有著緊追莫斯科和聖彼得堡的氣勢。
Before arriving, I already had some expectation for this city, but it proved itself beyond my expectation.
Everyone knows there are 5 -stan's in Central Asia, and two more in their south (Afghanistan and Pakistan), but very few know there is one more -stan in Russia: Tartarstan Republic, an autonomous republic made of primarily the Tartar Turks, whose capital is exactly Kazan. It's cultural root can be traced up to the Kazan Khanate, one product after the dissolution of the Golden Horde Khanate. Therefore both Orthodox cathedrals and mosques can be seen in this city. Two people and two religions live harmoniously here. This is why I wanted to come here originally.
However, there are more surprises. Kazan doesn't live on its unique cultural root. Instead, it develops as a sports city and hosts an international game almost every other year recently. It is well-equipped with modern facilities, bilingual signs and English-speaking staff at visitor information centers. And I guess they never have to worry about what to do with arenas and fields after a game, as they are always hosting the next. It has also been a well-known college town, and is currently focusing on developing IT professionals. It never limits itself to its cultural heritages. Kazan had marketed itself as "the third capital of Russia". It's far from the third in terms of its population, but its ambition and competitiveness are indeed close to the two largest cities.
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