我的「南漂青年」朋友們
My "northerner" friends in the south
(English edition after the Mandarin one)
最近幾次回到台灣,都有幾位南部的鄉親要我下去找他們。過去因為「人在台北」、「沒時間」等原因而不了了之,但這次大部分時間都待在嘉義,與高雄的距離終於近到無法拿來當藉口了,於是便安排在返台第三天南下,一天之內在屏東、高雄和三組不同人馬相聚(是說可以把所有人馬全部喬到同一天內而且無縫接軌也是個奇蹟呀XD)。值得一提的是,這些友人其實都不是高雄人,他們成長求學階段大多在北部,會來到高雄、屏東是為了工作;換句話說,他們就是不折不扣的「南漂青年」。
雖然說這趟下來主要是為了訪友,但既然來了就不會放過這個大好機會,直接觀光客模式全開,順道拜訪了近年完工的新建築如高雄車站、鐵路地下化、總圖書館、會展中心、哈瑪星鐵道文化園區,還有隔壁的屏東車站、六堆客家文化園區等。相較於過去我居住南部的時候,現在的高雄改變了不少,凡是台北有的公共建築、連鎖店、特色地景,高雄幾乎也都找得到,而且高雄的可能還比台北的更加新穎精緻(畢竟是比較近期才蓋的)——尤其把台北總圖和甫完工高雄總圖拿來一比,高下立判。
既然這個城市應有盡有,在這裡生活應該也不難吧?高雄是真的又_又_嗎?XD 我和南漂朋友們很自然的就聊到他們的生活。南漂朋友們告訴我,有些差異是他們來之前從未想到過的,這些差異絕對不是像「政府長期重北輕南」、「這裡比較多人騎機車、講台語」或者「吃得到丹丹漢堡」那麼簡單,反而是一些更深層的文化差異。例如,高雄的學生,特別是第一志願的,課業壓力比起北部可能有過之而無不及,火車站前那些補習班也就特別擅於操作學生這種焦慮心理,從升高一暑假就讓學生一路補上去;此外,未婚或選擇不婚的適婚年齡男女(特別是女性),在高雄的生存空間遠遠小於台北。這些差異都讓從事面對人群工作的他們必須調整策略。(以上純屬友人轉述,若有取樣誤差煩請正統的高雄人不要鞭太兇,謝謝 :) )
無論是北漂、南漂,或者像我這樣漂過太平洋到了美國之後又先西漂再東漂,在異鄉生活從來就不容易。或許這些挑戰在選舉期間可以被拿來當悲情牌帶動民氣,選舉完之後卻是每個人日常生活中每天得面對的課題,也不是任何一個政治人物能夠輕易改變的。
On the third day of my going-home trip, I visited the second largest city Kaohsiung, about 350km south of the capital Taipei, and its neighboring city Pingtung. While Taiwan is a tiny island, this north-south difference has been a lasting topic on this land, particularly among young adults, who often have to migrate from the south to the more developed north for work. The friends I visited this time, however, are those who moved to the south for their jobs.
Outwardly, Kaohsiung is as developed as Taipei, or even more developed -- many public facilities, shopping plazas and parks were built much more recently than their counterparts in Taipei. I visited Kaohisung Station, public library, exhibition center, railway heritage park, etc and was impressed by the architectural design. While the city seems as contemporary, vibrant as Taipei, my friends told me that there are still some cultural differences they have to deal with. They told me examples about the education system and local's view on singleness. Every city has its own unique culture, and there are challenges that one may not be aware of until moving here and fully settling down.
Whether moving north like most Taiwanese, moving south like my friends, or moving over the Pacific to the USA and between east and west coast like me, living in a new city is never easy, no matter how innovative, contemporary and vibrant the city is.
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จำได้หรือไม่ ทาทา ยัง คือคนไทยคนแรกที่ได้ขึ้นปก Time Magazine ฉบับเดือนเมษายน ปี 2001 เนื้อหาเกี่ยวกับประเด็น Eurasian Invasion รวมลูกครึ่งเอเชียที่มาแรง ร่วมกับนักแสดงชาว Hong Kong Maggie Q สมัยสาวๆ และ Indian VJ Asha Gill
เนื้อหาประกอบ บางส่วน :
Tata Young certainly knows how to let loose. Back in 1995, when she broke into Thailand's entertainment industry at the age of 15, the pert half-Thai, half-American singer was on the forefront of the Eurasian trend. Today, the majority of top Thai entertainers are luk kreung. Now 20, Young is the first Thai to sign a contract with a major U.S. label, Warner Brothers Records (owned by AOL Time Warner, parent company of Time), which she hopes will elevate her into the Britney Spears/Christina Aguilera pantheon. Back at home, Young has to contend with a gaggle of luk kreung clones who mimic her brand of bubble-gum pop. The hottest act now is a septet called, less-than-imaginatively, Seven, and three out of seven are of mixed race.
The luk kreung crowd tend to hang tight, dining, drinking and dating together. "We understand each other," says Nicole Terio, one of the group. "It comes from knowing what it means to grow up between two cultures." But the luk kreung's close-knit community and Western-stoked confidence sometimes elicits grumbles from other Thais, who also resent their stranglehold on the entertainment industry. The ultimate blow came a few years back when Thailand sent a blue-eyed woman to the Miss World competition. Sirinya Winsiri, also known as Cynthia Carmen Burbridge, beat out another half-Thai, half-American for the coveted Miss Thailand spot. "Luk kreung have made it very difficult for normal Thais to compete," gripes a Bangkok music mogul. "We should put more emphasis on developing real Thai talent." The Eurasians consider this unfair. "I was born in Bangkok," says Young. "I speak fluent Thai and I sing in Thai. When I meet Westerners, they say I'm more Thai than American." Channel V's Asha Gill senses the frustration: "A lot of Asians despise us because we get all the jobs, but if I've bothered to learn several languages and understand several cultures, why shouldn't I be employed for those skills?"
The jealous sniping angers many who suffered years of discrimination because of their mixed blood. Eurasian heritage once spoke not of a proud melding of two cultures but of a shameful confluence of colonizer and colonized, of marauding Western man and subjugated Eastern woman. Such was the case particularly in countries like the Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam, where American G.I.s left thousands of unwelcome offspring. In Vietnam, these children were dubbed bui doi, or the dust of life. "Being a bui doi means you are the child of a Vietnamese bar girl and an American soldier," says Henry Phan, an Amerasian tour guide in Ho Chi Minh City. "Here, in Vietnam, it is not a glamorous thing to be mixed." As a child in Bangkok during the early 1990s, Nicole Terio fended off rumors that her mother was a prostitute, even though her parents had met at a university in California. "I constantly have to defend them," she says, "and explain exactly where I come from."
Ever since Europe sailed to Asia in the 16th century, Eurasians have populated entrepots like Malacca, Macau and Goa. The white men who came in search of souls and spices left a generation of mixed-race offspring that, at the high point of empire building, was more than one-million strong. Today, in Malaysia's Strait of Malacca, 1,000 Eurasian fishermen, descendants of intrepid Portuguese traders, still speak an archaic dialect of Portuguese, practice the Catholic faith and carry surnames like De Silva and Da Costa. In Macau, 10,000 mixed-race Macanese serve as the backbone of the former colony's civil service and are known for their spicy fusion cuisine.
Despite their long traditions, though, Eurasians did not make the transition into the modern age easily. As colonies became nations, mixed-race children were inconvenient reminders of a Western-dominated past. So too were the next generation of Eurasians, the offspring of American soldiers in Southeast Asia. In Thailand, luk kreung were not allowed to become citizens until the early 1990s. In Hong Kong, many Eurasians have two names and shift their personalities to fit the color of the crowd in which they're mixing. Singer and actress Karen Mok, for example, grew up Karen Morris but used her Chinese name when she broke into the Canto-pop scene. "My Eurasian ancestors carried a lot of shame because they weren't one or the other," says Chinese-English performance artist Veronica Needa, whose play Face explores interracial issues. "Much of my legacy is that shame." Still, there's no question that Eurasians enjoy a higher profile today. "Every time I turn on the TV or look at an advertisement, there's a Eurasian," says Needa. "It's a validating experience to see people like me being celebrated."
But behind the billboards and the leading movie roles lurks a disturbing subtext. For Eurasians, acceptance is certainly welcome and long overdue. But what does it mean if Asia's role models actually look more Western than Eastern? How can the Orient emerge confident if what it glorifies is, in part, the Occident? "If you only looked at the media you would think we all looked indo except for the drivers, maids and comedians," says Dede Oetomo, an Indonesian sociologist at Airlangga University in Surabaya. "The media has created a new beauty standard."
Conforming to this new paradigm takes a lot of work. Lek, a pure Thai bar girl, charms the men at the Rainbow Bar in the sleaze quarters of Bangkok. Since arriving in the big city, she has methodically eradicated all connections to her rural Asian past. The first to go was her flat, northeastern nose. For $240, a doctor raised the bridge to give her a Western profile. Then, Lek laid out $1,200 for plumper, silicone-filled breasts. Now, the 22-year-old is saving to have her eyes made rounder. By the time she has finished her plastic surgery, Lek will have lost all traces of the classical Thai beauty that propelled her from a poor village to the brothels of Bangkok. But she is confident her new appearance will attract more customers. "I look more like a luk kreung, and that's more beautiful," she says.
A few blocks away from Rainbow Bar, a local pharmacy peddles eight brands of whitening cream, including Luk Kreung Snow White Skin. In Tokyo, where the Eurasian trend first kicked off more than three decades ago, loosening medical regulations have meant a proliferation of quick-fix surgery, like caucasian-style double eyelids and more pronounced noses. On Channel V and mtv, a whole host of veejays look ethnically mixed only because they've gone under the knife. "There's a real pressure here to look mixed," says one Asian veejay in Singapore. "Even though we're Asians broadcasting in Asia, we somehow still think that Western is better." That sentiment worries Asians and Eurasians. "More than anything, I'm proud to be Thai," says Willy McIntosh, a 30-year-old Thai-Scottish TV personality, who spent six months as a monk contemplating his role in society. "When I hear that people are dyeing their hair or putting in contacts to look like me, it scares me. The Thai tradition that I'm most proud of is disappearing."
In many Asian countries—Japan, Malaysia, Thailand—the Eurasian craze coincides with a resurgent nationalism. Those two seemingly contradictory trends are getting along just fine. "Face it, the West is never going to stop influencing Asia," says performance artist Needa. "But at the same time, the East will never cease to influence the West, either." In the 2000 U.S. census, nearly 7 million people identified themselves as multiracial, and 15% of births in California are of mixed heritage. Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, the Oscar-winning kung fu flick, was more popular in Middle America than it was in the Middle Kingdom. In Hollywood, where Eurasian actors once were relegated to buck-toothed Oriental roles, the likes of Keanu Reeves, Dean Cain and Phoebe Cates play leading men and women, not just the token Asian. East and West have met, and the simple boxes we use for human compartmentalization are overflowing, mixing, blending. Not all of us can win four consecutive major golf titles, but we are, indeed, more like Tiger Woods with every passing generation.
cr. TIME / HANNAH BEECH
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