關於 麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵 ，我們在網路上蒐集到這些相關的討論、資訊與評價

[Paris pastry shop / 巴黎甜點店] Philippe Conticini 主廚的 Gâteaux d’émotions 新店開幕與簡短訪問 / Opening of Gâteaux d’émotions in Paris 16e & short interview with the chef Philippe Conticini (English below)

Philippe Conticini 主廚的麵包甜點店 Gâteaux d’émotions 在 16 區開幕，這是他巴黎三家、東京兩家店中第一家販賣麵包與維也納麵包類商品的店鋪、也是巴黎唯一一家在店內就有廚房能生產製作的店家（其他商店由中央廚房生產商品後供應）。去年已經在〈高貴的日常—麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵〉一文中，與大家分享過 #麵包在巴黎重新受到注目的趨勢，現在越來越多甜點主廚們也加入戰局，想必未來會相當精彩，一般的街坊麵包店可能也會開始感覺到一些壓力。

Philippe Conticini 主廚與過去曾自行開業、也曾在上海藍帶學院擔任講師的 Sébastien Crouzat 主廚合作，推出一系列的麵包，包括長棍麵包、鄉村麵包、黑麥麵包與各種維也納麵包等。這家位於 16 區的店面處於一條繁華的商店街上（42 Rue de l’Annonciation, 75016 Paris），平日人潮熙來攘往，未來也即將推出適合午餐時間的三明治等商品。

本次重點除了品嚐麵包之外，還有 Conticini 主廚歷經兩年時間研發出的蛋糕捲。雖然是受到日本蛋糕捲的啟發，但主廚特別強調這和日本蛋糕捲完全不同。他觀察到日本人喜歡的蛋糕質地非常柔軟濕潤、像海綿一般，但「這不是歐洲人的口味」，他的蛋糕捲用了比較少的蛋與蛋黃、多了一些水分，質地較日本蛋糕捲酥鬆、更易融於口（fondant）。

Philippe Conticini 主廚是巴黎甜點界非常重要的人物，輩份和 Pierre Hermé 主廚相當，是知名的「Pâtisserie des Rêves」（夢幻甜點店）創始人之一，我也曾經在〈法國甜點大師群像〉專欄中介紹過他。當天他人在現場，我抓緊機會請教了一些我一直很關注、目前飲食界也很感興趣的問題。雖然有些問題和開幕主題無關，但主廚仍然很親切地為我解說：

Q：您曾經出版過一本《無糖甜點》食譜書（原文書名為《Gâteaux et gourmandises sans sucre》），請問您 #怎麼看待現今甜點減糖的潮流呢？您是不是也認為目前消費者越來越追求「健康的甜點」？

A：我認為大家被誤導了。的確現代消費者越來越希望品嚐到更為健康的甜點、減糖也是趨勢，但是 #我不認為甜點應該要不甜或無糖。我們為什麼要吃甜點，就是因為甜味帶來的愉悅感，凡事都應該講求平衡。重點並不是「糖是不好的東西」，而在於「#我們該如何攝取糖」。

Q：您怎麼看待 #純素（#vegan）的甜點呢？

A：我曾經品嚐過 Michaël Bartocetti 主廚（現任 Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris）的純素甜點，真的非常了不起，好吃得不得了，不論技術、外型還是口味都無懈可擊。但每個人有自己風格，#製作純素甜點不是我個人想做的。

Q：對您來說，甜點最重要的是味道，那您是否不關心外型呢？

A：外型也是重要的，#美味跟美麗的外表都是對製作甜點來說重要的考量因素。但是我不會刻意雕琢外型，（指著桌上的蛋糕捲）你看這個蛋糕捲，完全沒有裝飾，但是味道完完全全是我想要的樣子，我花了兩年的時間研究。它很好吃，大家都會忍不住再來一塊（又拿了一塊，並示意我也再吃一塊）。

Q：您的甜點是不是也沒有使用任何色素呢？

A：對，我的作品幾乎都沒有使用任何色素，像這個蛋糕捲甚至完全是裸露的。我們要思考「#為什麼要使用色素」。

雖然主廚的回答很簡短，但卻非常切中核心，許多觀點都值得大家思考。接下來就請點開照片一ㄧ欣賞該店商品！

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The chef Philippe Conticini opened his 3rd “Gâteaux d’émotions" boutique in the 16th arrondissement in Paris. This is the first boutique among all his boutiques (in Paris & Tokyo) that offers a full bread & viennoiserie product line and the first one in Paris with a kitchen behind so that on-spot fabrication is available. I have talked about in my previous article “Bread is a Rising Star in Paris” that bread is now under the spotlight and the boom of new style bakeries. Many pastry chefs have apparently noticed the trend and are now trying to catch up, take Cédric Grolet for example. As the line separating a boulangerie and a pâtisserie gets blurred even with regard to high end brands, I’m very looking forward to future innovations and cross-disciplinary collaborations.

The chef Philippe Conticini has invited Sébastien Crouzat, former owner of his own bakery and chef boulanger at Le Cordon Bleu Shanghai, to create a complete range of bread for this Gâteaux d’émotions boutique (now Pain d’émotions as well), such as baguettes, country breads, rye bread, viennoiseries, etc. Situated on 42 rue de l’Annonciation, a busy street full of shops and restaurants, this bakery will soon offer sandwiches and other savoury goods for lunch time.

Besides the bread, the chef Conticini has also launched a Japan-inspired rolled cake. The chef has spent 2 years to create a recipe that is much more “fondant” (easy to melt in the mouth) than its Japanese cousin, which is extremely soft, moist and spongy. Less eggs, yolks and more liquid are used. The chef has emphasised that “it is exactly how I want it”.

Internationally renowned and respected just as Pierre Hermé, Philippe Conticini is a great French pastry chef that has co-founded Pâtisseries des Rêves (closed permanently). I’ve introduced him in my “French pastry chef portraits” column several years ago but had not had chance talking to him personally until that day. I asked several questions related to topics that I’m really interested in and the chef was very kind to share with me his ideas:

Q: You’ve published a book "Gâteaux et gourmandises sans sucre” ("Sugar-free Cakes and Delicacies”) before, I wonder how you think about the current trend of pastries with “less sugar”? Have you also found that consumers nowadays are looking for “healthier” pastries?

A: I think people are misled (with regard to the sugar-free concept). It’s true that consumers are looking for healthier pastries, and less sugar is the trend, but I don’t think we should promote sugar-free pastries. The reason why people are having pastries or desserts is because we’re looking for “pleasure”. Sugar is not a bad thing, what’s important is the way we consume it and how we have a balance on everything in life.

Q: What’s your opinions on vegan pastries?

A: I’ve tasted the vegan pastries made by the chef Michael Bartocetti (head pastry chef of Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris and I really loved them. They were fantastic in terms of skills, appearance and taste. But everyone’s got his way and style. Vegan pastries are not my thing.

Q: “Taste” is the most important thing for you when making pastries, what do you think about the visual appearance of pastries? Is it less important?

A: Visual appearance is important as well! Both good taste and beautiful look matter when it comes to make pastries, but I don’t focus on making things beautiful. You see this rolled cake? There’s no decoration at all, but the taste is just how I want it. I spent two years on achieving this status. It’s really delicious and no one can resist having another slice.

Q: Do you not use colorants on your pastries?

A: That’s right. I hardly use any colorants on my pastries. Take this cake for example, it’s plain and naked. We should reflect on the question “why we need to use colorants”.

These are short answers, they’re very much to the point. Hopefully they’re as inspiring for you! Don’t forget to click on the photos and have a closer look on what the chef has to offer!

🔖 You might also be interested:

My pastries tell who I am: Philippe Conticini: https://tinyurl.com/trh23u2

Bread is a rising star: https://tinyurl.com/t8bn8cj

🔖 延伸閱讀：

我的甜點說明我是誰 － Philippe Conticini：https://tinyurl.com/trh23u2

高貴的日常 － 麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵：https://tinyurl.com/t8bn8cj

#yingspastryguide #pastrychef #philippeconticini #gateauxdemotions

[Paris bakery / 巴黎麵包店] Sain Boulangerie (for English, please click "see more") 🥐🥖🍞

昨日和從科隆來訪的好友一起在聖馬丁運河附近拜訪了一家我一直想去的麵包店—— Boulangerie Sain。這家麵包店在去年 11 月開幕，主廚 Anthony Courteille 原本是廚師，曾在西班牙五星級飯店餐廳與巴黎知名的二星餐廳 Grand Véfour 工作，後來在 Sain 的原址開了自己的餐廳 Matière A。

之所以從廚師轉向麵包，除了自己的興趣之外，也因為他希望能夠扭轉工業化為麵包業帶來的惡名。他曾在接受巴黎媒體 Le Parisien 的訪問時提到，現在越來越多消費者對麩質過敏，其實正是使用工業化改造麵粉與大量添加物，讓麵包能快速發酵、生產的製程影響。他希望能藉著使用未改造的古老小麥麵粉、天然酵母、長時間發酵、手工揉橄麵糰等傳統麵包工藝，為現代的消費者帶來更健康的選擇。這也是他的麵包店之所以取名為「Sain」（法語中「健康」之意）的緣由。同一個訪問中 Anthony 還提及，自己的父母都是農民，也是工業化要求大量產出的受害者，他特別希望自己的努力能夠重拾麵包素樸且高貴的形象。

他自己以烤過的乾草和浸漬蘋果皮製作天然酵母，維也納麵包類（viennoiserie）則是使用自製的牛奶酵母發酵，麵團的香氣與彈性和一般市售麵包完全不同。Sain Boulangerie 店面雖小，但各種麵包樣樣俱全，招牌大型圓麵包名為「le Saint-Martin」，呼應位於巴黎聖馬丁運河的店址、與成為街坊麵包店的用心；店門口小小的櫃台擺滿了多種早餐與點心麵包與簡單的糕點，如美式餅乾、胡蘿蔔蛋糕、布朗尼、檸檬蛋糕等。後面的架上則有各種能搭配餐點的鹹麵包，Anthony 將自己過去身為廚師的經驗運用在製作麵包上，創作出如能和鬆軟蛋包搭配的蕎麥蘑菇麵包、適合與燻魚搭配的墨魚汁麵包、與清淡起司搭配的黑蒜榛果麵包等，簡直是麵包愛好者的天堂。如果我就住在旁邊，想必也是會經常光顧！

記得點照片看更多細節！ 👇🏻

🔖 延伸閱讀：

高貴的日常－麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵：https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399

法式甜點關鍵詞－甜點與麵包的分界：https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd

*****

Finally paid a visit yesterday to Sain Boulangerie with a friend of mine from Köln. I’ve been thinking to go for a while but never got time. Sain opened about a year ago. Anthony Couteille, the chef boulanger used to be a cook and has worked at some restaurants at palaces hotels in Spain as well as at Grand Véfour, two Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris. He opened his own restaurant Matière A on the same address which is transformed to Sain Boulangerie last year.

He has decided to become a boulanger not only because bread is a real passion for him but also because he wants to change the bad image the industrial bread has left to the whole profession. In his interview with Le Parisien, he mentions that the modern gluten intolerance and allergy are resulted from the use of modified flours and additives which accelerates the fermentation and production process of the bread. By using non-modified ancient wheat flours, natural yeast, adopting slow fermentation process. and hand-kneading, Anthony wishes to remind consumers that bread could be very healthy. And that is exactly why his bakery is named as “Sain” (“healthy" in French). In that same interview, he also stresses that his parents were farmers during the agricultural industrialisation and became victims of the latter to quickly increase the farm yields. He hopes that his efforts to bring back the traditional craftsmanship would also regain the nobility of bread in our daily lives.

He makes his own yeast out of grilled hay and macerated apple peels. A milk yeast cultivated by himself is used for the viennoiseries which results in an remarkable scent and texture that are completely different from ordinary ones. Though not a big boutique, Sain Boulangerie offers a wide range of bread. The “Saint-Martin”, the signature bread of the bakery combines chestnut flour and grilled einkorn and ancient wheat flowers. Lots of great viennoiseries and simple pastries such as cookies, carrot cakes, brownies, lemon cakes are displayed on the little counter at the storefront, on the shelves behind, savoury bread to go with different dishes are also available. Utilising past experiences as a cuisiner, Anthony has created lots of interesting flavours such as buckwheat and mushroom bread to go with fluffy omelettes, squid ink bread to go with smoked fish, black garlic and hazelnut bread with cheese, etc. A heaven for all the bread lovers indeed! I would definitely become one of the loyal customers f I lived in the neighbourhood!

Click on the photos to find out more! 👇🏻

🔖 To read more on this topic:

Bread is a rising star in Paris: https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399

The fine line between pastries and bread: https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd

#yingspastryguide #boulangerie #bread #paris #sainboulangerie

[News / 甜點新聞] Cedric Grolet 主廚的巴黎新麵包甜點店 Cédric Grolet Opéra 即將在 11 月中開幕！/ Cédric Grolet's new bakery/pastry shop is expected to open in mid-November

Cedric Grolet 主廚的新店終於有新消息了！主廚剛剛在 Instagram 與 Facebook 同步公佈預計開幕時間，幫大家整理重點如下：

1. 預計開幕時間：#11月中
2. 店鋪型態：#麵包甜點店（boulangerie-pâtisserie）
2. 地址：35 avenue de l’Opéra, 75002 Paris
3. 新店粉絲頁：IG @cedricgroletopera / FB Cédric Grolet Opéra

大家可以去追蹤新的粉絲頁就不會錯過最新動態囉！

🔖 延伸閱讀：

🥖 「連 Cédric Grolet 主廚的新店都可能是一家麵包店」，麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵：https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399

🥐 pâtisserie vs. boulangerie，甜點與麵包的分界：https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd

圖片來源：@Cédric Grolet

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Some more news from Cedric Grolet's new shop! The chef just announced on his Instagram and Facebook page that the new shop is expected to open its door in coming November. Some quick recaps:

1. Opening time: mid-November, 2019
2. Type of boutique: boulangerie-pâtisserie (bread bakery & pastry shop)
3. Address: 35 avenue de l’Opéra, 75002 Paris
4. New fan page for the shop: IG @cedricgroletopera / FB Cédric Grolet Opéra

More news and updates are expected to come, stay tuned!

🔖 To read more on this topic:

🥖 "Even the new shop of the chef Cédric Grolet might be a boulangerie". Bread, a rising star in Paris: https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399

🥐 The fine line between pâtisserie and boulangerie: https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd

Photo credit: Cedric Grolet

#yingspastryguide #paris #cedricgrolet #cedricgroletopera

(for English, please click "see more")

巴黎雅典娜廣場飯店麵包主廚 Guillaume Cabrol 本週末（9月14日、15日）在 Fou de Pâtisserie 向大眾介紹他的維也納麵包作品。他在影片中和台灣的讀者們介紹自己與本次活動的起源 —— 他的「100% 巧克力麵包」（在 Fou de Pâtisserie 第 37 期第 93 至 98 頁有詳細說明與食譜）。

雅典娜廣場飯店是巴黎極少數擁有自己麵包烘焙坊的飯店之一，Guillaume 主廚也是極少數巴黎宮殿級酒店（palace）中的麵包主廚。不過隨著「麵包」越來越紅，也許接下來我們會看見各飯店在麵包研發與行銷上投注更多心力。

? 延伸閱讀：

? 法式甜點關鍵詞 － 甜點與麵包的分界：https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd

? 高貴的日常 － 麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵：https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399

? 專訪 Fou de Pâtisserie 雜誌總編輯與創辦人 Julie Mathieu：https://tinyurl.com/y4zus2u9（上）、https://tinyurl.com/y2vkah9w（下）


Guillaume Cabrol, head pastry chef of Hotel Plaza Athénée is presenting his viennoiseries at the Fou de Pâtisserie boutique this weekend (14-15 September). He explains in this short video how the idea of the event is originated and how exclusive it is for a palace hotel to own its own bakery.

Hotel Plaza Athénée is one of the very few Parisian palaces that owns their own bakery. The chef Guillaume is also one the few head bakery chefs in palaces. But as "bread" and "bread bakery" (boulangerie) seem to become more and more popular in recent years, we might witness mounting efforts and investment in this discipline.

? You might be interested also:

? French pastry keywords - The fine line between pâtisserie and boulangerie: https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd

? Bread is a rising star in Paris: https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399

? Interview with Julie Mathieu, co-founder and editor in chief of Fou de Pâtisserie: https://tinyurl.com/y4zus2u9 (part 1), https://tinyurl.com/y2vkah9w (part 2)

Music: Au Cinema
Url: https://icons8.com/music/