早安～性別平權吹進時尚界
看Chanel、Dior的品牌創意總監如何為女權發聲
👗Women Are Defining Paris Couture
巴黎高級訂製品牌，現在由女性主宰
#今天來讀紐約時報
🇫🇷PARIS — Something unexpected has happened at the Paris couture — the tippy tippy top of the European fashion pyramid and the beating heart of its identity. Steadily, quietly, seemingly overnight (though obviously not) it has become defined by women: not those to whom it caters, but those in charge.
巴黎——巴黎高級訂製服是歐洲時尚金字塔的最頂端，同時也是引領時尚的先鋒，發生了一件意想不到的轉變。平和地、靜悄悄地、彷彿就在一夜之間（儘管顯然不是），它已被女性所定義：女人不僅僅是時裝週要迎合的對象，她們也成了執掌大權的人。
-couture: 高級訂製時裝
-cater to: 迎合某事、某人
🌸The three most famous French couture houses are now designed by women: at Chanel, Virginie Viard is artistic director; at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri; and at Givenchy, Clare Waight Keller. Meanwhile, the most singular newgen brand on the schedule, Iris van Herpen, is (duh) run by its namesake. That may not sound like a lot, but in a contracting discipline it means the balance of the power of influence is in their hands. Like what they do or not — and the results were mixed — there is no question, as the shows got underway, that a troika dominated the conversation. And that, in itself, is a step forward.
法國最著名的三大時裝公司現在都由女性設計師擔綱大位： Virginie Viard在香奈兒擔任藝術總監；迪奧的藝術總監是Maria Grazia Chiuri；紀梵希則由Clare Waight Keller擔任。與此同時，目前最獨特的新一代品牌Iris van Herpen則由她本人運營。這些聽起來也許不算什麼，但是根據合約的規範，這意味著影響力的平衡掌握在她們手中。無論她們做什麼、不做什麼——其結果是好壞參半——毫無疑問，隨著走秀繼續進行，這幾位女性所駕馭的三頭馬車主導了對話。而這本身就是向前邁出的一步。
-newgen: new generation的縮略語，指「新一代」
-troika: 三頭馬車
⚜On Monday night, Marlène Schiappa, the French minister of state for gender equality, presented the Légion d‘honneur to Ms. Chiuri. In front of a crowd that included Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, Bianca Jagger and a host of cheering LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton executives, Ms. Schiappa put it this way: ‘‘You proved to all women you could change things by doing it yourself.’’
週一晚上，法國負責性別平等的國務秘書 Marlène Schiappa向Maria Grazia Chiuri頒發了榮譽軍團勳章。觀禮者包括Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie、Bianca Jagger和一群歡呼雀躍的LVMH 高層，Schiappa如此說道：「你向所有女性證明，你能靠自己做出改變。」
-gender equality: 性別平等
- the Légion d‘honneur: 法國榮譽軍團勳章
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