關於 traditional viennoiserie ，我們在網路上蒐集到這些相關的討論、資訊與評價

[Paris pastry / 巴黎甜點] Jimmy Mornet 主廚 2019 年聖誕節蛋糕創作與下午茶甜點 / Jimmy Mornet, head pastry chef of Park Hyatt Paris-Vendome presents his 2019 yule log and Christmas tea time pastries (for English, click "see more")

前天受邀前往Hotel Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme Paris 巴黎凱悅凡登花園酒店品嚐 Jimmy Mornet 主廚的 2019 年聖誕節蛋糕創作與聖誕節下午茶甜點。雖然比其他酒店發表的時間晚，但仍然非常令人驚喜。

去年 Jimmy 主廚的聖誕節蛋糕是一個逼真的可可豆莢巧克力雕塑，今年則是回歸傳統、以長條形的蛋糕迎戰其他五星級飯店甜點主廚們炫技般的創作。延續去年的概念，今年的聖誕節蛋糕依然是無麩質的作品，以 Sudachi 日本柚子檸檬、糖漬西洋梨、混合聖誕香料為主題。Jimmy 主廚解釋其實製作無麩質的蛋糕非常簡單，因為蛋糕不像麵包需要麩質才能延展、或是需要有強健的組織以支撐成型，所以平常製作各種海綿蛋糕時，可以隨時用等量的米粉、栗子粉、玉米粉或其他無麩質的麵粉等取代傳統麵粉。而他選用 Sudachi 日本柚子檸檬，則是因為這種檸檬比起已經法國甜點界已經幾乎隨處可見的柚子更有新意。西洋梨加肉桂、八角等綜合香料，則是聖誕節甜點的經典款，西洋梨溫柔的甜味也能平衡 Sudachi 的微苦、讓味道更有層次。

我們另外品嚐了本季的聖誕節下午茶甜點，這是一份和其他宮殿級酒店下午茶完全不同的菜單，因為其中竟然包含使用了吹糖技術製作的盤式甜點、冰品和牛軋糖、fudge 牛奶糖。一般在豪華酒店的下午茶甜點通常都是包含各種鹹甜小點的三層架、頂多加上一些主廚精選的糕點，不會有盤式甜點的選項（通常只能在飯店的高級餐廳中以餐後甜點的方式上桌）。我特別詢問了 Jimmy 主廚，他說他們希望能夠提供在其他飯店都沒有的體驗、讓飯店的甜點更平民化、更普及，所以才不辭辛苦地在下午茶也提供技術成分如此高的作品。

當天剛好是個好天氣，我們被邀請至一個超級豪華、內部有兩層樓的套房，二樓的露台有著能遠眺凡登廣場、歌劇院、艾菲爾鐵塔的絕景。美景搭配甜點，還有什麼經驗能如此美妙？點照片一起欣賞吧！

更多當天的影音和主廚介紹，請至我的 Instagram 頁面精選動態「Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme」欣賞，裡面還有 Jimmy 主廚去年的精彩作品 👉🏻👉🏻 https://tinyurl.com/txmbkjh

🔖 延伸閱讀：

Jimmy Mornet 主廚 2018 年聖誕節創作與聖誕節下午茶：https://tinyurl.com/t4zzf4u

2019 年巴黎聖誕節蛋糕創作精選：https://tinyurl.com/r9j6jnf

2019 年聖誕節日曆：https://tinyurl.com/serwgfz

*****
I got invited the day before yesterday to Hotel Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme for tasting the yule log and Christmas tea time pastries created by the chef Jimmy Mornet. The timing was a bit late compared with other hotels and shops, but they were beautiful surprises still.

Last year the chef proposed a chocolate sculpture of a cocoa bean for the yule log but this year he has chosen to get back to the traditional presentation. A gluten-free cake like last year, this yule log features Sudachi, a small round and juicy Japanese lime, pears, and Christmas spices. The chef Jimmy explained that different from everyone might have imagined, it is actually not that difficult to make a gluten-free cake as it’s not like making bread while tenacity resulted from gluten is needed to support the structure. One can easily replace wheat flour with rice flour, chest flour, corn four, or other gluten-free alternatives of the same amount. And the reason why he chose to work with Sudachi lime is because it’s a characteristic Japanese citrus fruit much less known than yuzu, which is widely used nowadays in French pastry world. Poached pears with spices like cinnamon, star anis, and cardamon, etc. is a classic match for a Christmas theme. The lovely sweetness of pears softens the slight bitterness of Sudachi and gives more depth to the flavour.

We also had the chance tasting the Christmas tea time menu, which is completely different from that of other palace hotels. Besides one viennoiserie and an entremets in individual portion, the chef proposes an ice-cream, a plated dessert made of blown sugar, nougat and fudge that normally cannot be found on a tea time menu. By replacing ordinary pastries and mignardises with those desserts requiring more skills and efforts, Jimmy told us that he would love to make palace desserts more accessible to the general public, after all, not everyone is available to dine in a fine-dining restaurant in luxury hotels.

It was a beautiful day that day and we were really lucky as we also got to enjoy the incredible view and amazing sunset from the terrace of the suite. Delicate and delicious desserts plus the breathtaking view…couldn’t ask for more! Click on the photos now and have a closer look on this wonderful experience!

Check the featured stories of “Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme” on my Instagram page for more photos and videos 👉🏻👉🏻 https://tinyurl.com/txmbkjh

🔖 More on this topic:

Chef Jimmy Mornet’s 2018 yule log creation and Christmas tea time menu: https://tinyurl.com/t4zzf4u

2019 Yule log creations: https://tinyurl.com/r9j6jnf

2019 Advent calendars: https://tinyurl.com/serwgfz

#yingspastryguide #paris #jimmymornet #parkhyattparisvendome

[Paris bakery / 巴黎麵包店] Sain Boulangerie (for English, please click "see more") 🥐🥖🍞

昨日和從科隆來訪的好友一起在聖馬丁運河附近拜訪了一家我一直想去的麵包店—— Boulangerie Sain。這家麵包店在去年 11 月開幕，主廚 Anthony Courteille 原本是廚師，曾在西班牙五星級飯店餐廳與巴黎知名的二星餐廳 Grand Véfour 工作，後來在 Sain 的原址開了自己的餐廳 Matière A。

之所以從廚師轉向麵包，除了自己的興趣之外，也因為他希望能夠扭轉工業化為麵包業帶來的惡名。他曾在接受巴黎媒體 Le Parisien 的訪問時提到，現在越來越多消費者對麩質過敏，其實正是使用工業化改造麵粉與大量添加物，讓麵包能快速發酵、生產的製程影響。他希望能藉著使用未改造的古老小麥麵粉、天然酵母、長時間發酵、手工揉橄麵糰等傳統麵包工藝，為現代的消費者帶來更健康的選擇。這也是他的麵包店之所以取名為「Sain」（法語中「健康」之意）的緣由。同一個訪問中 Anthony 還提及，自己的父母都是農民，也是工業化要求大量產出的受害者，他特別希望自己的努力能夠重拾麵包素樸且高貴的形象。

他自己以烤過的乾草和浸漬蘋果皮製作天然酵母，維也納麵包類（viennoiserie）則是使用自製的牛奶酵母發酵，麵團的香氣與彈性和一般市售麵包完全不同。Sain Boulangerie 店面雖小，但各種麵包樣樣俱全，招牌大型圓麵包名為「le Saint-Martin」，呼應位於巴黎聖馬丁運河的店址、與成為街坊麵包店的用心；店門口小小的櫃台擺滿了多種早餐與點心麵包與簡單的糕點，如美式餅乾、胡蘿蔔蛋糕、布朗尼、檸檬蛋糕等。後面的架上則有各種能搭配餐點的鹹麵包，Anthony 將自己過去身為廚師的經驗運用在製作麵包上，創作出如能和鬆軟蛋包搭配的蕎麥蘑菇麵包、適合與燻魚搭配的墨魚汁麵包、與清淡起司搭配的黑蒜榛果麵包等，簡直是麵包愛好者的天堂。如果我就住在旁邊，想必也是會經常光顧！

記得點照片看更多細節！ 👇🏻

🔖 延伸閱讀：

高貴的日常－麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵：https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399

法式甜點關鍵詞－甜點與麵包的分界：https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd

*****

Finally paid a visit yesterday to Sain Boulangerie with a friend of mine from Köln. I’ve been thinking to go for a while but never got time. Sain opened about a year ago. Anthony Couteille, the chef boulanger used to be a cook and has worked at some restaurants at palaces hotels in Spain as well as at Grand Véfour, two Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris. He opened his own restaurant Matière A on the same address which is transformed to Sain Boulangerie last year.

He has decided to become a boulanger not only because bread is a real passion for him but also because he wants to change the bad image the industrial bread has left to the whole profession. In his interview with Le Parisien, he mentions that the modern gluten intolerance and allergy are resulted from the use of modified flours and additives which accelerates the fermentation and production process of the bread. By using non-modified ancient wheat flours, natural yeast, adopting slow fermentation process. and hand-kneading, Anthony wishes to remind consumers that bread could be very healthy. And that is exactly why his bakery is named as “Sain” (“healthy" in French). In that same interview, he also stresses that his parents were farmers during the agricultural industrialisation and became victims of the latter to quickly increase the farm yields. He hopes that his efforts to bring back the traditional craftsmanship would also regain the nobility of bread in our daily lives.

He makes his own yeast out of grilled hay and macerated apple peels. A milk yeast cultivated by himself is used for the viennoiseries which results in an remarkable scent and texture that are completely different from ordinary ones. Though not a big boutique, Sain Boulangerie offers a wide range of bread. The “Saint-Martin”, the signature bread of the bakery combines chestnut flour and grilled einkorn and ancient wheat flowers. Lots of great viennoiseries and simple pastries such as cookies, carrot cakes, brownies, lemon cakes are displayed on the little counter at the storefront, on the shelves behind, savoury bread to go with different dishes are also available. Utilising past experiences as a cuisiner, Anthony has created lots of interesting flavours such as buckwheat and mushroom bread to go with fluffy omelettes, squid ink bread to go with smoked fish, black garlic and hazelnut bread with cheese, etc. A heaven for all the bread lovers indeed! I would definitely become one of the loyal customers f I lived in the neighbourhood!

Click on the photos to find out more! 👇🏻

🔖 To read more on this topic:

Bread is a rising star in Paris: https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399

The fine line between pastries and bread: https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd

#yingspastryguide #boulangerie #bread #paris #sainboulangerie

『Gontran Cherrier』just opened their new shop at K11 Musea, Hong Kong 🇫🇷 🇭🇰 . As a 4th Generation French baker, he is quite famous in Paris for a few items from Bread to Artisanal Sandwiches, and his Viennoiserie selections. For me personally, I have always admired his 'unique' Croissant dough and layers which are individually well defined and unlike most traditional flaky Austrian/French croissants, using a 2 tri-fold method only. In HK previously I think only Levain Bakery also adapted this style. The Plain and Flax Seed 亞麻籽 croissants were both great, slightly more oily than their French or Japan counterparts for now but within 90% scope. Btw the Japanese Gontran Cherrier shops have all been gradually renamed to 'Boulangerie' in recent year.